Our journey began in Buenos Aires, where all Viking guests were accommodated at the centrally located Hilton Hotel for one night pre-cruise. It’s an easy walk to plenty of bars and restaurants, which made it perfect for a short stay. The following morning was an early start with a light continental breakfast before we boarded Viking’s organised coach transfers to the airport. From there, we flew on a 3.5-hour charter flight to Ushuaia with all guests onboard. On arrival, we were transferred directly to the ship - but because the port is right in town, we had the chance to disembark after boarding for some relaxed sightseeing in Ushuaia before setting sail that night.
Viking Polaris is a purpose-built expedition ship that blends Scandinavian style with serious capability. Designed for polar exploration but with plenty of luxury touches, the ship never felt crowded, with only 240 guests onboard during our sailing. Public spaces like the panoramic Explorer’s Lounge and the Aquavit Terrace were warm, welcoming and made the most of the incredible views. The ship’s design includes high-tech features like stabilising fins and in-sea positioning pods (no anchor required), which allowed us to glide into remote bays and hover silently while surrounded by whales.
Our cabin was modern, light-filled, and surprisingly spacious for an expedition vessel. Heated floors in the bathroom, a drying cupboard for wet gear, and generous storage made it easy to settle in. The bed was exceptionally comfortable, and waking up to snow-capped peaks out the window never got old. We also loved the Nordic balcony, a full sized window which can open from the ceiling to waist height, giving fresh air and also a good sized living area.
Daily onboard activities included expert lectures on wildlife, photography, climate and polar history, along with practical briefings for excursions, kayaking, and even submarine dives. I particularly enjoyed the photography sessions - even iPhone users got tailored tips. There’s also a well-equipped gym, sauna, and an infinity hot tub with views out over the ice.
We especially loved The Grill, where my husband was treated to a perfectly prepared tomahawk steak topped with lobster tails and chimichurri. It was paired with a robust Argentinian Malbec and followed by more than one return visit. The variety of restaurants onboard catered to every taste, and even room service was beautifully done.
After returning from excursions, we often headed to Mamsen’s, a cosy spot serving Norwegian-style comfort food. Whether it was open sandwiches, a hot bowl of soup with fresh bread, or one of their signature cookies, it was the perfect way to warm up after time out on the ice. These afternoons were usually accompanied by a hot chocolate, a cold beer, or the occasional hot toddy from the bar - simple pleasures that felt extra special in such an extraordinary setting.
Bar service throughout the ship was friendly and quick, and the crew made a real effort to remember your preferences (and your name!).
What really stood out, though, was the warmth of the expedition team. Each had a fascinating story - one was a husky trainer and Iditarod competitor, another a former fighter pilot who fell in love with Antarctica and never left. Their enthusiasm for the destination was contagious and made the entire experience feel personal.
Another major advantage of travelling on Viking Polaris (and her sister ship, Octantis) is their speed and design. With a top speed of 18 knots, the ship is fast enough to time the Drake Passage crossing between weather systems - a huge benefit when dealing with such unpredictable seas. On our voyage, this allowed the captain to wait in sheltered waters until a weather front passed, and then make up time during the crossing. As a result, we avoided rough conditions in both directions without losing precious time in Antarctica. The ship’s stabilisers and advanced positioning system made for a remarkably smooth ride, even when swells reached 3–4 metres - nothing close to the legendary “Drake Shake” we’d been warned about.
We travelled for 12 nights across the Antarctic Peninsula, with calm seas and unusually clear weather. Our first landing was on Wienke Island - a big moment for me, as it meant stepping foot on my seventh continent. Other highlights included Brabant Island, where we saw leopard seals lounging on the ice, and an unforgettable deck BBQ followed by the sight of 10 pods of humpbacks with their calves.
A submarine dive down 400 metres revealed starfish, deep-sea corals and an eerie, alien world. We also kayaked among icebergs and explored D’Hainaut and Half Moon Islands - each offering up penguin colonies, glassy waters, and moments of pure stillness.
Viking Polaris is ideal for travellers who want a true expedition without sacrificing comfort. I’d recommend it to adventurous couples, solo travellers, and even well-travelled cruisers looking for something extraordinary. Don’t miss the submarine dive if possible - it’s a rare and unforgettable way to explore the depths of this remote, magical place.
