The journey began with a flight into Buenos Aires and an overnight at the Hilton, provided by Ponant. Transfers to and from the airport were seamless, and we were free to explore the local nightlife and restaurants. After breakfast the next morning, we flew by charter to Ushuaia. On arrival, our bags were loaded onto waiting coaches for a short tour of the National Park before lunch, followed by embarkation on Le Boréal, our home for the next 10 days.

The welcome onboard set the tone immediately. The Captain greeted us at the top of the gangway, and the entire crew seemed to be waiting in the lounge to ensure we felt at home from the start. Finding our cabin was easy on this small-capacity ship, which can host 264 guests but had just 118 on our sailing. Our Prestige Veranda Cabin was comfortable and well located.

That evening we gathered in the theatre to meet the Captain, crew and the eight naturalists who would guide our Zodiac excursions and share their expertise on all things Antarctica. The Captain prepared us for the Drake Passage, forecasting relatively calm three-metre swells. Dinner that night in La Boussole offered generous buffet choices, while La Licorne provided table service and buffet options for breakfast the following morning.

Before reaching Antarctica, we attended compulsory briefings on Zodiac use, landing protocols and wildlife encounters. As our voyage partnered with Smithsonian Journeys, we also had lecturers onboard, covering topics such as the geology of Antarctica, ice-core research, and the long-term effects of climate cycles and human impact. Collecting our iconic red jackets and boots added to the sense of anticipation.

The first evening included the Captain’s Cocktail Party and Gala Dinner – a sumptuous five-course meal followed by entertainment from the resident singer, and a nightcap in the Observation Lounge as we prepared for our first Antarctic landing.

Our inaugural Zodiac outing offered sightings of humpback whales, chinstrap and gentoo penguins, sea lions, skuas and storm petrels. Cruising near the Argentinian research station at Melchior, we were captivated by the pristine wilderness. At dinner that evening, whales appeared right outside the restaurant windows – live entertainment at its finest.

At Neko Bay we visited a gentoo rookery and enjoyed our first landing on the peninsula. Another day, a juvenile whale spent 20 minutes performing alongside the ship at Port Charcot. Champagne on the Zodiacs, surrounded by ice and penguins, was a pinch-me moment, as was Champagne and caviar while watching whales feed in the Graham Channel. We also explored two volcanic islands – one a former whaling station, another a research site abandoned after eruptions in the 1960s.

Wildlife encounters were constant: elephant seals lounging on beaches, rafts of penguins swimming by, and seabirds wheeling above. The naturalists and lecturers were outstanding, bringing depth and meaning to every sighting.

Onboard life was equally memorable. The food was among the best I have ever had at sea, with attentive bar and wait staff who quickly felt like friends. Evenings included performances from a talented concert pianist, alongside casual entertainment in the lounge.

Our return crossing of the Drake Passage brought slightly rougher seas at four metres, but conditions were still considered good. With mostly blue skies and calm weather throughout, we were exceptionally lucky. Back in Ushuaia, a short tour and some shopping time rounded out the adventure before our charter flight returned us to Buenos Aires.

Special mention goes to Susan, our Tour Director, whose support in resolving a lost baggage issue was second to none. Her professionalism was a credit to Ponant.

This was an extraordinary voyage that surpassed every expectation. For its small-ship atmosphere, exceptional service, expert guiding and remarkable wildlife encounters, I cannot recommend Ponant highly enough. Antarctica truly was the trip of a lifetime – thank you, Ponant, for making it possible.