From the moment I stepped on board, the ship felt calm and welcoming. Cabins are generous in size for a river ship, and mine had both a French balcony and an outside balcony, which I made excellent use of. There is something very soothing about sitting outside with a cup of tea, or a glass of wine, watching the banks of the Danube slip by.
Dining on AmaWaterways is consistently impressive. Across the main restaurant, the chefs do a wonderful job of weaving in local flavours, from hearty Hungarian goulash to Serbian grilled specialities and surprisingly good Bulgarian wines. Sparkling wine at breakfast was a pleasant little luxury, and wine, beer and soft drinks are included with lunch and dinner, which makes meals feel easy and unhurried. Dietary requests were handled smoothly too.
Facilities on board reflect the relaxed atmosphere: a small pool, a fitness room, a walking track and, my favourite, complimentary bicycles for guided or independent exploring in port. But it is the crew who truly elevate the experience. They learn your preferences quickly, greet you warmly each day and somehow manage to be both professional and genuinely friendly, a balance not every cruise line gets right.
The itinerary itself is rich and varied. We began in Budapest with an evening illumination cruise, always magical no matter how many times you have been. In Mohács and Pécs, we visited the UNESCO listed early Christian necropolis, while in Vukovar you can choose between a Croatian wine tasting at Ilok Winery or a deep dive into the region’s more recent history. Belgrade offered a mix of city touring, fortress exploring and even cycling through the capital.
Vidin’s medieval Baba Vida Fortress was another memorable stop, as was Rousse, often called Little Vienna thanks to its elegant architecture. From here, I joined an optional tour to Veliko Tarnovo, once the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire and still full of charm. The journey wrapped up in Giurgiu with a visit to Bucharest, a city that blends history and modern energy in unexpected ways.
Shore excursions were well organised and included in the fare, with something for every interest, walking tours, cultural visits, cycling, food and wine, or history focused outings. The guides were enthusiastic and proud to share their stories, which made a real difference.
This itinerary is ideal for mature travellers, couples and anyone who has already experienced the Rhine or Upper Danube and is looking for something a little different, something more authentic, less polished and deeply rewarding. It is not big on nightlife, and Wi-Fi can be patchy in places, but if you enjoy good food, beautiful scenery and meaningful cultural experiences, it is hard to beat. September and October are particularly lovely, with comfortable temperatures and fewer crowds. And if your budget allows, book a balcony cabin because the views through the Iron Gates Gorge alone make it worthwhile.
AmaWaterways continues to impress me with its excellent service, seamless logistics and thoughtful touches throughout. The Gems of Southeast Europe itinerary is exactly that, a gem, and a wonderful way to discover a quieter, gentler corner of Europe at a relaxed and enjoyable pace.
